Struggling to understand the codebase/development

Im not sure if its just me and my lack of experience with package managers other than npm. But this codebase feels so convoluted. The npx quick start guide is forced down my throat, and when I used it I cant actually edit any of the strapi code files like the front end of the admin area, or even the core API?

When I clone the Github repo, Im forced to use yarn instead of npm (why?) and when I do install the packages, theres no command like “npm run dev” where I can edit the code as I go and something like vite will build the server as I edit the code so I can see my changes reflected?

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So if I want to make changes, for example edit the layout of the menu in the admin area because I dont like how the content editor is laid out, how can I do this?

It’s not working like that

Strapi is bit major in terms of packages involved

You can do some customisation via plugins but not like fork repo and do your own branch